Accident Repair

How to Avoid Getting Cheated on Car Repairs

To live in America is to own a car. And if you own a car or truck, at some point you will find yourself sitting in a the customer area of a repair shop, waiting for your car to come off the rack and hoping that some expensive surprises haven’t been found.

Unfortunately, Some repair shops aren't satisfied with profits from legitimate repairs. They supplement their bottom line by cheating the public. The most common scams are making unnecessary repairs and bait & switch. The terrible fact is that most people have no idea they've been defrauded.

This report will help you be aware of the how unethical shops try to reel you in and how you can better assess what's actually wrong with your own car.

The California Bureau of Automotive Repair, gets 25,000 or so complaints a year.

Scams & Tricks

Bait & Switch

Bait & switch is an age-old technique used to separate people from their money. It involves advertising an teasingly low price on something like "brake relining" with no intention of only performing that service. Once you get it may be explained that "..the offer is just for the cheapest pads" and "isn’t your safety worth getting our best ceramic pads?" In the end, many people have full uneeded brake overhauls with new rotors, new drums and a lot of work that just wasn't warranted. Bait & Switch is most often seen on regularly needed services like brake-jobs, radiator service, transmission fluid checks and tire checks.

Unnecessary Repairs--

Making unnecessary repairs and "overselling" are the natural extension of bait & switch. After all, you want to insure that your car runs right and since you have already taken the day off form work you "might as well have it all done." The fact is that cars are durable. Assuming you properly maintain them and don’t drive to harshly, you should be able to go past 200,000 miles without a new transmission or engine. Here are some of the common replacements consumers are induced to make:

Replacing batteries when a recharge will do Replacing air filters when they can be blown clean with an air hose. Replacing 4 tries when just two will do Having rotors turned with every brake pad replacement Replacing the transmission when an adjustment or new fluid would be fine Another category of unnecessary repairs is "extra maintenance". This is where the service shop gives you maintenance instructions which are more profitable than the ones the manufacturer recommends. The most common example with oil changes. Most of today's cars do not need the oil changed but once every 7,000miles. However, every quick change oil shop in the country will put up a sticker that says to change the oil at 3,000 miles. It pays to be aware of the Manufacturers Specs.

According Deputy Chief ofCalifornia Bureau of Auto Repair, Richard Mundy, "bait & switch" is one of the top scams repair shops pull.

Now we get into a category of deceit that is no less than outright theft.

Unmade Repairs

This is just what it says. You are charged for repairs which presumably were made, but in fact were not. The shop pockets the labor and parts costs as pure profit. This scam is easier to pull off on someone who is not familiar with thier car. It most often works like this… you come in for a problem like a whining fan belt. The mechanic takes a look at it and tells you that you need an alternator. Trusting the mechanic, you agree to the repair, but then the he just replaces the fan belt and sprays WD-40 on the alternator to insure it's smooth operation. Boom-- you get charged $275 for a new alternator, but all you got was a $5.00 fan belt.

Parts Cheating

Every mechanic is familiar with many sources to get parts for cars. Parts are either:

• OEM-- made by the manufacturer or their supplier
• New-- made by a competitor, but according to the manufacturer's specs.
• Refurbished-- (also rebuilt/ reconditioned) Used shell, but the guts are usually new
• Salvage-- used and taken from a wrecked car.

The mechanic may charge you for a new part, knowing that the price compares well with quotes form other shops, but he actually installs a refurbished or salvage part. This gives him an extra profit and most customers will never know the difference.

Mechanics / Attendants causing damages

When they think they can get away with it, unscrupulous operators may even cause damages. It’s very easy to slash a tire, or poke a hole in a radiator hose, cut a fan belt and even loosen wires when they are under the hood unsupervised. Try to stay close to your car when they are first examining your car. This makes it harder for someone to damage your car in hopes of getting an expensive repair job

Charging you by repair hours

Have you ever seen the sign on the wall of a shop that says they charge "$35 or $45 per hour for work?" Well every possible repair in your car has been performed so many times that each there is actually a standard time-estimate for performing anything from plugging a tire to replacing the engine. What some repair shops do is charge you that "estimated time to complete" by their hourly rate. What happens is that a quick mechanic may be able to do the repair in 20% less time, say 4 hours instead of 5, but you still get charged for the 5 hours. Insist on accurate time charges for you repairs or a fixed price for the job up front.

Strategies to save yourself

1. Ask friends for a referral to a mechanic they love.

2. Get a written estimate before work begins - Make sure they explain whether this is a "fixed price" or an "hourly labor" job.

3. Ask if labor charges are separated form the parts charges

4. Make sure the estimate specifies the quality of parts to be used (OEM, refirbished, etc.)

5. Never give a stranger a big repair job. It's worth it to get a second opinion.

6. Ask if the mechanics are certified to perform the type of repair you need.

7. For large repairs… wreck damage, engine or transmission replacement, ask for references and consider calling the local BBB.

8. If you have any concern that the repair was not made, ask to see the broken parts.

Most importantly-- Never, ever allow yourself to feel trapped or helpless. You can always have the car towed to another shop! You do not have to have the work done on the spot, by this mechanic.

National figures indicate Americans waste more than $20 billion each year on faulty or unnecessary auto repairs.

Taking the Scare Out of Auto Repair

This is a portion of a Presentation made by the Federal Trade Commission, the National Association of Attorneys General and the American Automobile Association

Heading off Problems

The more you know about your vehicle, the more likely you'll be able to head off repair problems. You can detect many common vehicle problems by using your senses: eyeballing the area around your vehicle, listening for strange noises, sensing a difference in the way your vehicle handles, or even noticing unusual odors.

Looks Like Trouble

Small stains or an occasional drop of fluid under your vehicle may not mean much. But wet spots deserve attention; check puddles immediately. You can identify fluids by their color and consistency:

Yellowish green, pastel blue or florescent orange colors indicate an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump or leaking radiator.

A dark brown or black oily fluid means the engine is leaking oil. A bad seal or gasket could cause the leak.

A red oily spot indicates a transmission or power-steering fluid leak.

A puddle of clear water usually is no problem. It may be normal condensation from your vehicle's air conditioner.

Smells Like Trouble

Some problems are under your nose. You can detect them by their odor:

The smell of burned toast - a light, sharp odor - often signals an electrical short and burning insulation. To be safe, try not to drive the vehicle until the problem is diagnosed.

The smell of rotten eggs - a continuous burning-sulphur smell - usually indicates a problem in the catalytic converter or other emission control devices. Don't delay diagnosis and repair.

A thick acrid odor usually means burning oil. Look for sign of a leak.

The smell of gasoline vapors after a failed start may mean you have flooded the engine. Wait a few minutes before trying again. If the odor persists, chances are there's a leak in the fuel system - a potentially dangerous problem that needs immediate attention.

Burning resin or an acrid chemical odor may signal overheated brakes or clutch. Check the parking brake. Stop. Allow the brakes to cool after repeated hard braking on mountain roads.

Light smoke coming from a wheel indicates a stuck brake. The vehicle should be towed for repair.

A sweet, steamy odor indicates a coolant leak. If the temperature gauge or warning light does not indicate overheating, drive carefully to the nearest service station, keeping an eye on your gauges. If the odor is accompanied by a hot, metallic scent and steam from under the hood, your engine has overheated. Pull over immediately. Continued driving could cause severe engine damage. The vehicle should be towed for repair.

Sounds Like Trouble

Squeaks, squeals, rattles, rumbles, and other sounds provide valuable clues about problems and maintenance needs. Here are some common noises and what they mean:

Squeal - A shrill, sharp noise, usually related to engine speed: Loose or worn power steering, fan or air conditioning belt.

Click - A slight sharp noise, related to either engine speed or vehicle speed: Loose wheel cover.

Loose or bent fan blade. Stuck valve lifter or low engine oil.

Screech - A high-pitched, piercing metallic sound; usually occurs while the vehicle is in motion: Caused by brake wear indicators to let you know it's time for maintenance.

Rumble - a low-pitched rhythmic sound. Defective exhaust pipe, converter or muffler. Worn universal joint or other drive-line component.

Ping - A high-pitched metallic tapping sound, related to engine speed: Usually caused by using gas with a lower octane rating than recommended. Check your owner's manual for the proper octane rating. If the problem persists, engine ignition timing could be at fault.

Heavy Knock - A rhythmic pounding sound: Worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings. Loose transmission torque converter.

Clunk - A random thumping sound: Loose shock absorber or other suspension component. Loose exhaust pipe or muffler.

Feels Like Trouble

Difficult handling, a rough ride, vibration and poor performance are symptoms you can feel. They almost always indicate a problem.

Steering-- Misaligned front wheels and/or worn steering components, such as the idler or ball joint, can cause wandering or difficulty steering in a straight line. Pulling - the vehicle's tendency to steer to the left or right - can be caused by something as routine as under-inflated tires, or as serious as a damaged or misaligned front end.

Ride and Handling-- Worn shock absorbers or other suspension components - or improper tire inflation - can contribute to poor cornering. While there is no hard and fast rule about when to replace shock absorbers or struts, try this test: bounce the vehicle up and down hard at each wheel and then let go. See how many times the vehicle bounces. Weak shocks will allow the vehicle to bounce twice or more. Springs do not normally wear out and do not need replacement unless one corner of the vehicle is lower than the others. Overloading your vehicle can damage the springs. Balance tires properly. An unbalanced or improperly balanced tire causes a vehicle to vibrate and may wear steering and suspension components prematurely.

Brakes-- Brake problems have several symptoms. Schedule diagnosis and repair if:

The vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied.

The brake pedal sinks to the floor when pressure is maintained.

You hear or feel scraping or grinding during braking.

The "brake" light on the instrument panel is lit.

Engine- The following symptoms indicate engine trouble. Get a diagnosis and schedule the repair.

Difficulty starting the engine.

The "check engine" light on the instrument panel is lit.

Rough idling or stalling.

Poor acceleration.

Poor fuel economy.

Excessive oil use (more than one quart between changes).

Engine continues running after the key is removed.

Transmission-- Poor transmission performance may come from actual component failure or a simple disconnected hose or plugged filter. Make sure the technician checks the simple items first; transmission repairs normally are expensive. Some of the most common symptoms of transmission problems are:

Abrupt or hard shifts between gears.

Delayed or no response when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse.

Failure to shift during normal acceleration.

Slippage during acceleration. The engine speeds up, but the vehicle does not respond.

Trouble-shooting

Car trouble doesn't always mean major repairs. Here are some common causes of trouble and techniques to help you and your technician find and fix problems:

Alternator - Loose wiring can make your alternator appear defective. Your technician should check for loose connections and perform an output test before replacing the alternator.

Battery - Corroded or loose battery terminals can make the battery appear dead or defective. Your technician should clean the terminals and test battery function before replacing the battery.

Starter - What appears to be a defective starter actually may be a dead battery or poor connection. Ask your technician to check all connections and test the battery before repairing the starter.

Muffler - a loud rumbling noise under your vehicle indicates a need for a new muffler or exhaust pipe.

Tuneup - The old-fashioned "tuneup" may not be relevant to your vehicle. Fewer parts, other than belts, spark plugs, hoses and filters, need to be replaced on newer vehicles. Follow the recommendations in your owner's manual.